Shoe-sewing machine.



No. 646,594. Patented Apr. 3, I900. J. E. BERTRAND.-

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Feb. I, 18991) ("0 Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet L Wlbwsses:Mentor: 1W6? MM Joseph Eazzerum,

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Patented Apr. 3, I900. J. E. BEBTRAND. 'suoa- SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Feb. 7, 1899.)

(No Model.)

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No. 646,594. PatentedApr, 3, I900.

J. E. BERTRAND. SHOESEWING MACHINE.

. (Application filed Feb. 7, 1899.! (No Model.)

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' No. 646,594. v Patented Apr. 3; I900.

J. E. BERTRAND. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Feb; 7, 1899.) (Np Model.) 4 Shanty-Shae 4.

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ITED STATES PATENT CFFICE JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND, OF BOSTON,MASSACI'IUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE BAY STATE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OFSAME PLACE AND PORT LAND, MAINE.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 646,594, dated April 3,1900-.

Application filed February 7, 1899. Serialll'o. 704,812. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND, of Boston, in the county ofSuffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Look Stitch \Va'Xed-Thread Sewing-Machines, of which thefollowing, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification.

This invention relates to lock-stitch Waxedthread sewing-machines,andespecially to that class of such machines known as outsolestitchers,which are employed to stitch a bottom or outer sole to a projectingstrip of leather or welt, which is stitched to the inner sole and upperof a lasted shoe, the last refor the article, such as'a shoe, which isbeing sewed, a feed for advancing the work as the stitching progresses,and a tension for the needle-thread. In such machine the needle passesback and forth through the-work, and when it is through the work thelooper lays the thread in the throat of its hook, and the needle thenretreats, drawing a loop through the Work, the thread paying out fromthe thread-supply side during this retracting or loop-drawing stroke.This mode of operation requires that the needle-carrier should be on theopposite side of thework-support from the looper and tension. When theneedle has thus drawn a loop through the work, the shuttle ispassedthrough said loop, carrying the shuttle-thread through the loop, thusinterlocking the two threads. The shuttle is hence necessarily on thesame side of the work-support as is the needle-carrier, and consequentlythe shuttle and needle-carrier are on one side of the work-support andthe looper and the tension are on the other. This general organizationand mode of operation have long been known and understood in the art-asshown, for example, by United States patent of Mills, No. 127,423, datedJune 4, 1872, and of Keats, No. 198,120, dated December 11 1877, and No.260,990, dated July 11, 1882. In connection with these fundamental features others are necessary or important. Such machines are provided with'a take-up to shorten or take up the surplus thread in the loop of theneedle-thread after the shuttlethread has been passed therethrough andto bring the point of intersection or lock of the two threads into themiddle of the layers being sewed together, a lock or brake to hold theneedle-thread fast, so that when the takeup acts it will not draw threadfrom the threadsupply, a thread-finger on the looper side of the Work,Which forms a loop or bight in the needle-thread between the previouscompleted stitch and the needle, so that when the needle draws the loopthrough the work it will get thread on one side from the threadfingerand on the other side from the take-up, thereby avoiding the cutting ofthe thread by the hook of the needle, which would occur if the threadfor the loopwas obtainable only from the take-up, and preferably athread measurer or meter to draw the needle-thread from its supplythrough the tension to furnish needle-thread for the formation of thenext successive stitch,the brake acting to hold the thread back of thethread-meter when the latter gives up the thread drawn out by it to theneedle. All of these features are well known in the art and areillustrated in the accompanying drawings, which also illustrate theimprovements constituting the present invention.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a plan of the head of a machine embodying myinvention. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same. Fig. 3 is anelevation of the same, looking at the left-hand side of Fig. 2, with thefly or hand wheel cut away. Fig. 4 is a sectional elevation, thecutting-plane being on line 00 00 on Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a sectional rearelevation of the shuttle-race and the mechanism for revolving theshuttle. Fig. 6 is a vertical transverse section of said shuttle-race,the cuttingplane being on line y g on Fig. 5. Fig. 7 is a front end Viewof the shuttle-driving shaft and the spiral gear formedthereon. Fig. 8is a rear elevation of the shuttle-driver. Fig. 9 is a front elevationof the shuttle, its raceway,and portions of the work-support,presserfootlooper, and thread-finger, with the shuttle in the position it occupiedat the end of each complete revolution. Fig. 10 represents a sideelevation of the cams, levers, links, and shuttle-operating crank-shaftin the position they occupy when the shuttle is in the position shown inFig. 1. Fig. 11 is a front elevation of the same parts that are shown inFig. 9, but showing the shuttle in the posi tion of its intermediatestandstill, during which the stitch is set. Fig. 12 is a side elevationof the same parts that are shown in Fig. 10, with the several parts inthe positions they occupy when the shuttle is in the position shown inFig. 11. Fig. 13 is an elevation of the needle-segment, the lever andcam for operating the same, the needle-guide, and the innergear-segments for operating the same. Figs. 5 to 13, inclusive, aredrawn to an enlarged scale.

Referring to the drawings, the work is held between the work-support Eand presser-foot d and is fed laterally between the formation ofsuccessive stitches by the feed awl a. (See Fig. 4.) The feed-awl is anoscillating tool which advances and punctures the work, then feedslaterally, carrying the work with it, then retreats from the work andout of engagement with it, and finally moves back again to its originalposition, ready for the next cycle of its operations. The presserfootcontributes to the feeding operation, bein g carried by the same slidingcarrier or feedslide D (see Fig. 1) which carries the feedawl. Thepresser-foot has also a to-and-fro movement of its own. During thestitchforming operation the presser foot firmly holds the work againstthe work-support. )Vhen the feed-awl moves laterally to feed the workalong, the presser-foot moves with it, thus assisting in the feed. henthe feed is completed, the presser-foot rises, crossing from thework-support clear from the work, retracts back to its originalposition, (moving back concurrently with the awl,) and then moves towardthe work-support to again clamp the work. During the stitch-formingoperation the work-support is locked in its place, but it is releasedjust before the feed takes place, at which time it is held against thework by yielding pressure only, (due to a spring,) so that the feedingis easily accomplished. As soon as the feed is completed thework-support is again locked in place.

The curved hook-needle 7c, looper n, and shuttle M constitute thestitch-forming devices and are best shown in Figs. 3, 9, and 11, theneedle being also shown in Fig. 13 and its shuttle in Fig. 6. The needleis given a simple oscillation or reciprocation back and forth into andout of the work. When through the work, the looper is given a circularmovement, and the needle-thread, which passes through an eye in thelooper, is thereby twisted around the needle and is laid in the throatof its hook. The needle then retracts through the work, carrying a loopof thread through with it. The shuttle is a discoidal one, which passesthrough the loop thus pulled out by the needle and after completing thismovement assumes its original position. The shuttle and needle-carrierare (the needle being a hooked one) necessarily on the same side of thework-support, and it is convenient to have them above the work-support,as shown in the drawings, and as has long been usual, as exemplified bythe Mills 1872 patent and the Keats 1877. and 1882'patents, all ubt'supra. It is also customary and usnal'where a discoidal shuttle isemployed to place it with one of its flat faces toward the operator, soas to project as little as practicable, as in the United States patentsof Pearson, No. 267,798, dated November 21, 1882, and of Keats, No.260,990, dated July 11, 1882, and this location is shown in the drawingsas a convenient one. The shuttle, as usual, carries within it a bobbinof previously-waxed shuttle-thread. The needle as it draws the loopthrough the work requires slack thread between it and the previousstitch, since it would otherwise cut the thread in passing through thework. Accordingly a movable thread-finger u (see Figs. 3, 9, and 11) isemployed, which draws out a bight of thread on the thread-supply side ofthe work and then retreats to give up the slack while the needle ispassing through the work. Enough slack is given to see the needlethrough the work. This thread-finger is substantially like thatdescribed in the United States patent of Campbell, No. 253,156, datedJanuary 31, 1882. The needle-thread comes from any suitablethread-supply and passes through a Wax-pot, (not shown,) where it iswaxed, and

thence passes around the tension device J (see Figs. 2 and 3,) whichapplies to the needle-thread the desired tension, the force of which canbe regulated by adjusting the tension device. The needle-thread thenpasses through the head of the machine to the takeup R. (See Figs. 3 and4.) This is a reciprocating device, which acts upon the needlethreadafter the shuttle has been passed through the loop drawn out by theneedle to draw the loop back through the work, so as to leave no slackthread on the shuttle side of the work, at the same time drawing downthe shuttle-thread into the work and leaving the two threads crossed inthe work. The take-up commences to retract to yield up the needle-threadpulled out by it as the feed takes place, so that there is no strain onthe thread at this time. At the same time the take-up furnishes slackthread for the threadfinger. The thread-finger moves to take its bightin the thread as the needle is moving forward toward the work, andduring this movement the take-up remains stationary and so remains untilafter the looper has acted. When the needle commences to retract, thetake-up also retracts and the two move in unison. At the same time thethreadfinger moves to give up its thread. Hence the needle gets threadfrom both sides-from the thread-finger and take-up, respectively thuspulling the loop by its middle through the work. The needle being allthe way back, the shuttle goes through the loop, expanding it in orderto find room, and the take-up accordingly continues itsretractingmovement, so as to yield thread for the shuttle. As soon as the shuttlehas fully expanded the loop and the latter is free to be drawn down thetake-up moves quickly in the opposite direction to perform its taking-upstroke. The take-up in completing this stroke sets the stitch, pullingagainst the work on one side and (in the illustrated construction)against the needle-thread lock on the other side, a yielding resistancebeing interposed for the purpose of preventing breakage of theneedle-thread. It is evident that the take-up in performing its take-upoffice should expend its action on the shuttle-thread and the loop ofthe needle-thread and should not draw thread from the thread-supply. Forthis pur pose a needle-thread lock or brake g (see Figs. 3 and 4) isemployed, located, as shown, between the take-up and thread-supply andin the immediate proximity of the tension device J The lock acts to lockthe needlethread just as the needle has completed its loop-drawingstroke and just as the shuttle is commencing its movement. The lockremains in this position, locking the needlethread and preventing thewithdrawal of the thread from the thread-supply, until after the take-uphas performed its taking-up action. As soon as this action is completedthe lock is released, thus leaving the needle-thread free to be drawnfrom the thread-supply. The thread-meter 4" (see Fig. 3) operates todraw thread from the thread-supply through the tension to furnish justenough needlethread for a single stitch and relieve the otherinstrumentalities from this duty It acts upon the thread between thelock and the take-up. It operates to draw thread after the take-up hasacted and preferably while the needle is advancing to penetrate thework, thus utilizing this time. At this time the needle-thread is' tautfrom the tension to the work, so that the effect of the movement of themeter is expended in drawing needlethread from the thread-supply. Themeter moves in the opposite direction to give up the thread measured byit at any convenient period in the illustrated machine while the looperis acting. The thread thus measured is drawn taut after the brake isapplied by pends upon the conjoint action of all the parts, which mustperform their movements in proper and orderly sequence. These severaloperative instrumentalities are all old in the art, as are also theirrelative movements as thus far described. The accompanying drawings showproper mechanical devices for imparting the proper movements at theright times, and these actuating devices are for the most part identicalwith those shown and de scribed in United States Patent No. 618,373,granted to my assignee January 24, 1899. Hence a brief description ofthese devices will here suffice.

A is the base-plate of the frame of the machine, provided with the twoupwardly-projecting plate-like standards A and A and firmly secured to asuitable supporting-column B of any suitable construction. Thebase-plate A has set therein the columns A and A in bearings in theupper end of which is mounted the shaft 0, having fixed thereon betweenthe said bearings the three cam-disks 0', C and C and said shaft hassecured thereto outside of the column A the drivingwheel 0Work-support.-The work-support inaddition to being locked and unlocked,as already described, is arranged so as to accommodate .work of varyingthicknesses between it and the presser-foot, this being permittedbecause the work-support is mounted on a pivoted carrier E (see Fig. 2,)which is acted upon by a spring, (not shown,) so that the worksupport isthereby pressed against the work, as is usual, and as shown in saidPatent No. 618,373. The locking-lever F for locking the work-support inplace is shown only in dotted lines in Fig. 3, but is constructed,arranged, and operated precisely as in said prior patent, except thatthe arrangement of the spring for holding its rear arm or the truckcarried thereby in contact with the cam i (see Fig. 1,) which acts tounlock the worksupport, is somewhat differently arranged, as a matter ofconvenience only, by placing the spring 9' (see Fig. 3) below the pin h,connecting its lower end directly to said lever F and its upper end tothe rod 9 which is threaded to receive the nut g (See also Fig. 1.)

Feed-awZ.-The standard A has formed integral therewith thelaterally-projecting branch A ,in the upper side of which is formed asuitable guideway parallel to the axis of the shaft 0, in which ismovably mounted the feed-slide D, (see Fig. 1,) provided at its innerend with the pendent arm D, carrying at its lower end the awl-segment D(see Fig. 4,) with the teeth of which the gear-segment b on the frontend of the lever D engages to impart an oscillating motion to thesegment D' and the awl ct as said lever is vibrated by the action of thecam-path b upon a truck mounted at a thus giving to the awl its motioninto and out.of the work. The

feed-slide D has an intermittent lateral reciprocation imparted thereto,to enable the awl to feed the work, by the action of the campath 0 inthe periphery of the disk 0 (see Fig. 1) upon a truck carried by therear end of the lever 0 fulcrumed at c and provided with a longitudinalslot 0 in which is adjustably mounted a pin 0 the lower end of whichenters a block set in a slot in a plate firmly secured to saidfeed-slide at right angles thereto, said pin and block being adjusted bymeans of the lever e to vary the feed and regulate the length of thestitch in a wellknown manner.

Presser-foot.-On the front face of the pendent arm I) of the feed-slideis mounted so as to be movable vertically thereon the plate d, to thelower end of which is secured the presser-foot d, (see Fig. 4,) and hasset in its upper end a stud, upon which is mounted the block d, which isengaged by the front end of the lever E, fulcrumed at e upon the innerend of the feed-slide D and carrying at its rear end the truck e, whichis acted upon by the face-cam e formed upon the periphery of thecam-disk C to force the presser-foot downward upon the work, saidpresser-foot being raised by the reaction of the spring e Saidpresser-foot thus moves laterally with the feed-slide and has anindependent movement of its own to and from the work-support.

Needle. The standard A has secured therein in axial line with the stud(1, upon which the awl-segment is mounted, the stud a upon which aremounted so as to be revoluble thereon the needle-segment D and theneedle-guide j. (See Figs. 3 and 13.) The needle-segment D has firmlyclamped thereto the curved, barbed, or hooked needle 7.: and is engagedby the teeth of the gear-segment formed on the front end of the lever H,fulcrumed at h on the stand 11, and provided with a truck l, which isacted upon by the path Z? in the side of the cam-disk C, which imparts asimple forward-and-back reciprocatin g movement to the needle, as shownin Fig. 13. The needle-guide] is constructed and operated as in saidprior patent, motion being imparted thereto from the cam-surface or (seeFig. 3) on the periphery of the camdisk C, the lever m shaft m, andsuitable segments,as shown and described in said prior patent.

Looper.The standard A has set therein the forked-headed stud I (seeFigs. 2 and 3) so as to be movable about its axis and has pivoted insaid forked head the lever I, (see Fig.3,) carrying at its front end thelooper n and at its rear end the cam-trucks n and n arranged with theiraxes at right angles to each other, the formerof which enters and isacted upon by the path a in the outer side of the cam-disk G, and thelatter is acted upon by the side face-cam n (see Fig. 1,) formed uponthe same side of said cam-disk C, said truck 12 being held in contactwith said face-cam by the tension of the spring 0, (seeFig.3,) connectedatone end to the rear end of the extension-arm I of said lever I and atits other end to a fixed portion of the machine, the conjoint eifect ofthe two cams being to impart a circular movement to the looper to carrythe thread around the needle.

Tension-J is a bracket bolted to the under side of the flange of thecolumn B and projecting to the rear therefrom to serve as a support forthe wax-pot, which with the rear portion of said bracket is not shown.The needle-thread from the thread-supply passes through the wax-pot andthence to the tension. A smaller bracket J is bolted to the bracket Jand has mounted therein (see Figs. 1 and 3) the spindle 0 upon which ismounted the tension-whee1J the pressure-disk 0 the spring 0 and thespring compressing or adjusting nut 0 for regulating the tension.

Thread-finger.ll1e thread-finger o is carried at the outer end of alever 8, pivoted to a fixed part of the machine, which is connected bylinks 9 and 10 and lever 11 to camlever 12, (see Fig. 3,) whichcooperates with a cam on the shaft 0, so that the thread-finger isreciprocated.

Take-up.The take-up R com prises the four trucks 3, 4, 5, and 6, aroundwhich the thread passes, as indicated in Fig. 4, the trucks 5 and 6being raised and lowered by a cam 20 through lever B and link 2;, sothat the take-up pulls the loop from the shuttle and then gives up thethread so derived as demanded. The thread 2 after leaving the wax pot(not shown) passes to and once around the tension wheel J thence to andonce around the sheave r thence over the sheave 3, thence under thesheave 5, over the sheave 4, under the sheave 6, then through the eye ofthe looper, and thence to the work, as shown by the dotted lines 2 inFigs. 3 and 4.

Brake or look. -K is a lever fulcru med upon the same studj upon whichthe feed-lever D is mounted, (see Fig. 4,) but upon the opposite side ofthe stand H from said lever D and has a vibratory motion impartedthereto by the action of the face-cam q, formed on the hub of thecam-disk 0 upon a truck carried by the forward end of said lever and thetension of the spring q, said spring and cam and the front arm of saidlever being shown in dotted lines in Fig. 4. The rear'end of said leverK has secured thereto the plate 1 which when depressed serves as abrake-shoe or look to press upon the needle-thread 2 within the grooveof the tension-wheel, to prevent thread being drawn therefrom when theshuttle is passing through the loop when the take-up is acting and whenthe stich is being set.

Thread-meter.The lever D which operates the awl-segment, has a shortrearwardlyprojecting arm, in the rear end of which is adjustably securedthe pendent thread-engaging rod g. (See Fig. 4.) The pendent rod 7" isprovided at its lower end with the enlarged forked portion 7" and hasmounted between its two arms the antifriction-sheave T the groove inwhich engages the thread when the rear end of the lever D is depressed.The sheave r descends far enough to draw off sufficient thread from thesupply for one stitch. Thick workrequires more thread in a stitch thanthin work, and the drawings illustrate an improved mechanism toautomatically regulate the amount of thread measured to correspond withthe thickness of the work, this mechanism constituting thesubject-matter of Patent No. 631,924, granted to my assignee August'29,1899. As here shown, a slide E connected to the work-support carrier Eis connected by a link L (see Fig. 4) with a bell-crank lever L, pivotedat j to a fixed part of the machine. This lever at one end carries agrooved pulley r near the thread-meter r around which the thread passesafter leaving the meter. Backward rotation of the pulley r is preventedby a pawl r and ratchet r It is evident that movement of the pulley r toand from the me-' work-support, and hence of pulley r through that theproper formation of a single stitch the intervening connecting devices.

The mechanism as thus far described is old (excepting the particularthread-meter which is claimed in said Patent No. 631,924, asjust stated)and constitutes in itself no part of the present invention, except in sofar as it enters into combination with the features con stituting thepresent improvements, which relate to the shuttle mechanism. I g

It is obvious from the preceding description requires the conjointaction of a large number of mechanisms which must operate. in; propersequence and that each device must for the same reasons be given assimple a movement as possible and should perform its office withouttheaid of instrumentalities added to the machine. The shuttle mechanismconstituting the present improvement f ulfils these requirements. Itssalient characteristics are, first, that it is a rotary shuttle whichwhen it rotates always rotates in the same direction, thus having aneasy movement and one which can be executed quickly; second, that itperforms one revolution only during the formation of each stitch; third,that it has two dwells during the formation of each stitch-a long onewhen the needle is executing its movements and a short one when the.take up is performing its take up oflice; fourth, that it takes theloop directly from the needle without the intervention of any specialadditional device, and, fifth, that it takes and frees the loop from theneedle without necessitating any special movement of the needle, theneedle havinga simple reciprocation into and out of the work and nomore.

The shuttle M is a discoidal or cylindrical 1 centerof the raceway, asshown.

one provided with aloop-en gagin g hook which takes the loop directlyfrom the needle. The shuttle is intermittently rotated always in thesame direction and is mounted in a suitable raceway M, which is firmlysecured in a fixed position to the upper portions of the standards A andA with its frontface inclined to a perpendicular, and has formed in itsfront sidea chamber M the inclosing side walls of which extend aroundabout four-fifths, more or less, of a complete circle, being open at thebottom and provided with the inwardly-projecting lip 8 which, with thecap-segment s embraces the on tWardly prOjecting .lip tof the shuttle,as shown in Figs. 4 and 6. The shuttle-raceway M has a closed back wallin which is a bearing for one end of the stub or carrier shaft t, theother bearing for which is formed in a boss or stand formed upon orsecured to the inner side of the standard A and has formed thereon aspiral gear-pinion p, the teeth of which are arranged at an angle offorty-five degrees to the axis of said pinion, said raceway beingcounterbored at the rear to receive one-half the length of said spiralpinion 19, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. stub-shaft t has a'shuttle-driveroperatively connected with the shuttle in anyusual way.

Said raceway also has formed upon its rear face a boss 19, semicircularin cross-section and extending from its right-hand end, as seen in rearelevation in Fig. 5, nearly to the In the boss 19 is formed a bearingfor the shuttle-driving shaft 19 which has formed integral therewiththe'crank p and has firmly secured upon its other end by a suitable keyand keyway and the screw 19 thespiral pinion p to match'the pinion p, asuitable semicircular chamber be- The p ing formed in the back of saidraceway to receive one-half of the pinion 19 as shown in Fig. 5.

O is a cam-disk mounted on the shaft C in near proximity to the column Aand having jecting bracket A formed in one piece with the column A andconnected at its upper end by the link N to the upper end of the leverN, mounted at its lower end upon the pin 29 of the crank 19 all as shownin Fig. 3, partly in dotted lines. has formed therein the cam-path N(Shown only in dotted lines in Figs. 3, 10, and 12.) The column A isalso provided with a rearwardly and upwardly projecting bracket or armA, to the rear end of which is pivoted an arm 0, which in theillustrated construction is a lever connected at its front end to theleverN and provided with a cam-truck 3 which enters and is acted upon bysaid path N to vibrate said arm 0 in a direction substantially at rightangles to the movements of the arm 0, or, in other words, to move theIIO The opposite side of the disk 0 front end of said arm 0 in an arc ofa circle the chord of which is substantially vertical, while the upperend of the arm 0 is moved in an arc of a circle the chord of which issubstantially horizontal. By this combination and arrangement of thecam-paths s and N the arms 0 and O, the link N, lever N, the crank pshuttle-driving shaftp and stub or carrier shaft and the pair of spiralgearpinions 1) and p, and a shuttle-carrier suitably connected to thefront of the shaft 1., a complete revolution of the shuttle always inthe same direction is produced during about one-half of each revolutionof the cam-shaft G, with a standstill for said shuttle d uriug theremainder of each revolution.

The shuttle M is provided with the usual circular chamber to receive acop or bobbin and is so constructed and arranged that the point of itshook shall intersect the path of movement of the needle and enter andpass through the loop of thread held by the barb of the needle when saidneedle is at the extreme of its upward and backward movement without theaid of other loop-opener, substantially as described in said priorpatent.

The operationof myinventionis as follows: The several parts of themachine being in the positions shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4t, f),and 10,with the shuttle just about to begin its motion, if the cam-shaft O isrevolved in the direction indicated by the arrows Z on Figs. 3, 10, and12 the first thirty-five degrees of the revolutionof the cam-shaft 0causes the upper end of the arm 0 to be moved to the extreme of itsrearward movement, which movement acting through the link N causes theupper end of the lever N to be moved toward the rear, said arm swingingabout its pivotal connection at the front end of the arm 0. At the sametime said arm 0 is moved downward by the action of the cam-path N uponthe truck 5, which downward movement of the front end of the armOcontinues until the shaft 0 has moved through about twenty-five degreesof its revolution, at which time it has reached the limit of itsdownward movement, and it remains in a state of rest during the nextthirty-five degrees of the movement of the shaft C, during the lasttwenty-five degrees of which the upper end of the arm 0, with the link Nand the upper end of the lever N, is being moved toward the front,moving the lever N around its pivotal connection on the arm 0, whichforward movement of the upper end of the arm 0, the link N, and theupper end of the lever N continues until the shaft 0 has moved throughabout seventy-five degrees of a revolution from the starting-point,during the last twenty-five degrees of which the front end of the arm 0is being moved upward. The combined movements of the arms 0 and 0, abovedescribed, acting upon the lever N, pivoted to the crank 19 causes saidcrank and its shaft to be moved about their common axis in the directionindicated by the arrow Z on Figs. 10 and 12, thereby moving the shuttleabout its axis in the direction indicated by the arrow on Fig. 9 andcausing its hook to enter and open the loop held by the needle. From thetime when the shaft 0 has moved through approximately ninety degreesuntil it has moved one hundred and five degrees from the starting-pointno movement of either arm 0 or 0 takes place, because both trucks .9 and5- rest upon portions of their respective cam-paths that are concentricto the axis of the shaft 0, and as a consequence the motion of theshuttle is arrested in the position shown in Fig. 11 after completingapproximately two hundred and eighty degrees of its revolution for asuflicient length of time for the stitch to be set by the suddendownward movement of the take-up lever R, during which setting of thestitch the shuttle-thread is drawn from the shuttle-bobbin in a straightline from the delivery-orifice through the guiding-eye .9 as shown inFig. 11. During the next seventeen degrees of the motion of the shaft 0the arm 0 is moved to the extreme of its upward movement and the upperend of the arm 0 is moved toward the rear and continues to move in thesame direction until the shaft 0 has moved through approximately onehundred and seventy-five degrees of a revolution from the startingpoint,when the shuttle has made a complete revolution and its motion isarrested in the position shown in Fig. 9, in which position it remainsduring the balance of the revolution of the shaft 0, during whichstandstillof saidshuttle the needle descends through the work, thelooper is moved around the needle to lay the thread into the barb of theneedle, the needle is moved upward, drawing the loop of thread throughthe work into the position shown in Fig. 9, when the shuttle is againrevolved in the same direction and again passes through the loop ofthread held by the barb of the needle.

One advantage of using an intermittentlyrevolving shuttle, all themovements of which are in the same direction, over an oscillatingshuttle is less wear and tear of the machine, because of avoiding thereversing of the shuttle motion, and consequently less momentum to beovercome,whereby the machine may be run more rapidly and at the sametime with less noise and less vibration of the parts.

I claim as my invention 1. A lock-stitch waxed-thread sewing-machinehaving, in combination, a hooked needle having a simple reciprocationinto and out of the work; a looper; a take up; a 1'0- tary shuttle whichwhen rotating always moves in the same direction and which completes onerotation during the formation of each stitch, said shuttle beingsolocated relatively to the needle that the path of its point intersectsthe loop on the needle so that the shuttle takes the loop directly fromthe needle, and said shuttle having two dwells IIO ' tation'during theformation of each stitch,

said shuttle being so located relatively to the needle that the path ofits point intersects the loop on the needle so that the shuttle takesthe loop directlyfrom the needle, and said shuttle having two dwells inits rotation,

one when the needle passes into and out of' the work, and the other whenthe take-up operates to set the stitch; and connected mechanisms foroperating said needle, looper,

take-up and shuttle, substantially as set forth. i v

3. A lockrstitch waxed-thread sewing-ma chine having, in combination, ahooked nee-. I

die; a looper, a take-up; a shuttle which when rotating always moves inthe same direction, and which completes one rotation during theformation of each stitch, and having two dwells in its rotation, onewhen the so needle passes into and out of the work, and the other whenthe take-up operates to set the stitch, and connected mechanisms foroperating said needle, looper, take-up, and

shuttle, substantially as set forth. 3 5

4:. The shuttle, and shuttle-driving shaft operatively connected, incombination with a crank on said shuttle-driving shaft, alever connectedto said crank, two arms connected to said lever at difierent places, andtwo cams 4o operatively connected to and acting with said arms, wherebysaid shuttle is intermittently rotated always in the same direction,with two dwells, substantially as set forth. I

In testimony whereof I have signed my 45 name to this specification, inthe presence of two subscribing witnesses, on this 3d day of February, AD. 1899.

, JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND. Vitness'es': I p

N.- O. LOMBARD, J OHN W. ROBBINS.

